(Un)Finished Business

Jul 10, 2023 | Freyja | 0 comments

5.12b/c 314 m, Mixed
Full rack .2”-4”, (4 optional) doubles .75”-3”, 10 sport draws, 4 alpine draws, 70m rope

Prep, T. Taylor, L. Taylor, FA, T. Taylor, L. Taylor, 2023

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(Un)Finished Business Topo


10 pitches of committing mixed gear/bolts take you up impressing aretes and features on the king line of Freyja wall. 


Park on the south side of the road as you would for the Via Ferrata From Nordegg with Love (52.104817, -116.431458). Cross the highway and follow the well established trail all the way up to the start of the Via Ferrata. There is a “Y” with a large rock stack on the trail. Stay right. (the left fork where you come out on the descent trail).

From there, traverse across the base of the wall rising for around 150 meters. At an old dead standing tree with a plaque marking the start of Better Together. Keep going about 100 m to the top right side of the skree cone ahead. The route begins in the distinct left facing corner.


The start of (Un)Finished Business
Lower Pitches of (Un)Finished Business
Lower Pitches of (Un)Finished Business
Lower Pitches of (Un)Finished Business

Pitch 1: 5.10a, 35 m, 3 bolts

Start at the broken corner. The first bolt is 5 m off the ground. Climb to the top of the corner. Exit naturally to the right on a gravelly ledge. 2 ring bolts settle your feet and clear loose rocks before your partner commits to the terrain below you.

Pitch 2:  5.10a, 35 m, 4 bolts

Walk right on the ramp climb pass 3 bolts. Don’t miss the excellent gear placement. Clip a fourth bolt. Optional gear out left as you trend straight up towards the anchor. 2 ring bolts.

Pitch 3:  5.12a, 30 m, 10 bolts

Spicy, well protected Sport Climbing. Leads to a ramp and a good gear placement before stepping left to gain a comfortable 2 rap bolt anchor.

Pitch 4:  5.10b, 32 m, 7 bolts

Trend left crossing low angle slab to a bolted crux move at a bulge. After the crux trend up and slightly left clipping bolts and placing good gear. Find the chain station anchor at the base of the corner in a comfortable position.

Pitch 5:  5.9, 15 m, 2 bolts

Trend up slightly right passing 2 bolts to gain the chain station anchor. There are lots of loose blocks if you trend too far left.

Upper Pitches of (Un)Finished Business
Upper Pitches of (Un)Finished Business
Upper Pitches of (Un)Finished Business
Lower Pitches of (Un)Finished Business

Pitch 6:  5.12b/c, 25 m, 10-12 bolts

0.75” & 1” optional

Gain the first bolt. Choose the more difficult option by gaining the bulge to the right of the bolt to avoid a large loose rock. Tiptoe left to solid immaculate sport climbing. Pull hard. A 0.75” and 1” are helpful near the top of this pitch. Gain the chain station and breathe a sigh of relief.

Pitch 7:  5.11c, 30 m, 4 bolts

entire gear rack required .2”-4” doubles 0.75”-3”

Follow the steep corner with many good stem rests. At the last bolt step hard left below the bulge to gain the chain station.

Pitch 8:  5.9, 30 m, 3 bolts

Follow the ramp with bolts to mark the way. Don’t get pulled in to the right facing corner. Gain the rappel anchor above a small tree in a sheltered alcove.

Pitch 9:  5.10a, 32 m, 2 bolts

Step back right passing 2 bolts after the second move left to the base of the step corner. Place excellent gear when it’s available. Pull through the steep section. Finish by climbing easier but slightly run out terrain on solid rock to the right side of the gully. 2 ring station.

Pitch 10:  5.10b, 50 m, 4 bolts,

4 alpine draws req’d

Reposition your belay 12m left by passing one large tree and anchoring on the next large tree. Climb through many bolts travelling up and left. As you reach steeper Terrain consider extending each bolt as rope drag is a challenge on this pitch. After turning back towards the right on the upper ramp good protection is available in the crack below the small roof. Trend right towards a block with a hidden bolt on top of it. Traverse under the block with your feet on the lip of the ramp. Continue past 2 more bolts into the forest. Tree anchor.


Trend up and left in the forest to gain the Starstruck descent trail. Descend as per Starstruck and Better Together:

Once you get to the final tree belay  & walk-off spot Bushwack roughly west, across the top of the plateau to a picnic table at the top of ‘From Nordegg With Love’ or rappel the route. We recently worked to establish a path down to the picnic table. Follow the indications of broken dead branches and cairns where we could find rocks. If you can’t find the table, you will end up at a small talus slope at the end of the trail of cairns.

Follow the talus to the well marked descent from the Via Ferrata. Turn right (roughly west) and follow the descent trail. Keep left at any junctions and follow this trail down and across the base of Mt. Ernst Ross, until you get back to the original large cairn from the approach trail. turn right, and down to the highway. 

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