Pitch 6: 5.12b/c, 25 m, 10-12 bolts
0.75” & 1” optional
Gain the first bolt. Choose the more difficult option by gaining the bulge to the right of the bolt to avoid a large loose rock. Tiptoe left to solid immaculate sport climbing. Pull hard. A 0.75” and 1” are helpful near the top of this pitch. Gain the chain station and breathe a sigh of relief.
Pitch 7: 5.11c, 30 m, 4 bolts
entire gear rack required .2”-4” doubles 0.75”-3”
Follow the steep corner with many good stem rests. At the last bolt step hard left below the bulge to gain the chain station.
Pitch 8: 5.9, 30 m, 3 bolts
Follow the ramp with bolts to mark the way. Don’t get pulled in to the right facing corner. Gain the rappel anchor above a small tree in a sheltered alcove.
Pitch 9: 5.10a, 32 m, 2 bolts
Step back right passing 2 bolts after the second move left to the base of the step corner. Place excellent gear when it’s available. Pull through the steep section. Finish by climbing easier but slightly run out terrain on solid rock to the right side of the gully. 2 ring station.
Pitch 10: 5.10b, 50 m, 4 bolts,
4 alpine draws req’d
Reposition your belay 12m left by passing one large tree and anchoring on the next large tree. Climb through many bolts travelling up and left. As you reach steeper Terrain consider extending each bolt as rope drag is a challenge on this pitch. After turning back towards the right on the upper ramp good protection is available in the crack below the small roof. Trend right towards a block with a hidden bolt on top of it. Traverse under the block with your feet on the lip of the ramp. Continue past 2 more bolts into the forest. Tree anchor.
Trend up and left in the forest to gain the Starstruck descent trail. Descend as per Starstruck and Better Together:
Once you get to the final tree belay & walk-off spot Bushwack roughly west, across the top of the plateau to a picnic table at the top of ‘From Nordegg With Love’ or rappel the route. We recently worked to establish a path down to the picnic table. Follow the indications of broken dead branches and cairns where we could find rocks. If you can’t find the table, you will end up at a small talus slope at the end of the trail of cairns.
Follow the talus to the well marked descent from the Via Ferrata. Turn right (roughly west) and follow the descent trail. Keep left at any junctions and follow this trail down and across the base of Mt. Ernst Ross, until you get back to the original large cairn from the approach trail. turn right, and down to the highway.