Filthy With Minerals

May 11, 2023 | Tan'si Tower | 0 comments

5.8, Mixed, 140 m
.3-3”, Doubles 1-2”, Small Nuts, 70m rope

Prep/FA Ethan Woodside and Tim Taylor, 2023

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Ton'si Tower Overview


These routes are on the thumb shaped tower just above Abraham Slabs and before the routes on Upper Abraham. Make sure to start with your belayer out of the way of rockfall. Look for fossils in the rock!


Park as for Abraham Mountain (52.2441, -116.4387). Take the main Abraham Slabs trail, and take the left fork. Walk past the Slabs, then stay low and backtrack up the ridge line with the tower on your right.

Descent Note: The route can be descended via the Abraham descent route (preferred), or rappelled via Rockies Ringlock and then back down the Abraham Slabs trail.


P1: 37m, 5.8, 9 bolts

Leave the single ring bolt, climb the first four bolts from Rockies Ringlock then quest left into compact well textured rock. Climb through a crux, place gear in a tunnel and gain the chain station on a nice ledge.

P2: 38m, 5.5, 1 bolt

Trend left towards the corner and follow groove systems. After 20 metres as you depart a ledge opt for the right, higher quality groove which leads to a single bolt before trending back left to the dihedral. Good gear in the dihedral leads up towards the base of the excellent groove and a chain station.

P3: 37m, 5.8

One difficult move to leave the station and gain the crack leads to easier climbing. A high right foot jam makes this move easier than the grade. Be aware of your belayer while you lead this pitch as they are very exposed to your rockfall. Near the top of the groove move right to a clean chimney feature. At the top of the feature look left to find the rappel station on a good ledge.

Route Rappel Descent after Pitch 3: Carefully rappel from this station in order to avoid rockfall while pulling ropes. Much cleaning has been done but there is still some loose rock. Rappel with a 70m rope using the chain  stations. Tie knots!

P4: 1 bolt

Trend right and cross the small scree gully before working your way up to a single bolt. From there climb up and just right of the tree on easier terrain. There is a two bolt anchor on the only solid block on the summit ridge.

Walk-off Descent:

Scramble up until you cross onto the Abraham Shoulder route. Head down the buttress and locate a lone tree with a chain station anchor hidden just right of it. Rappel a short distance straight down and find a ring bolt anchor hidden in an alcove. One more short rappel takes you to 3rd class terrain and scrambling down the Abraham Shoulder. There are numerous fourth class steps on that portion of the descent.

Rappel Descent:

Rappel down the face from the top anchor in 4x 35m rappels following the route Rockies Ringlock.

Hidden rappel anchor

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