Helmet Heart

Oct 28, 2022 | Freyja | 0 comments

5.10a / 5.14a 135 m, Sport
Gear: alpine quickdraws, 70 m rope

Prep: Kyle Noruschat, FA: Kyle Noruschat, Per Vormeland, ‘22

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Helmet Heart Topo, full


4 pitches of cruisy low angle slab leads to the base of a beautiful roof. Two options and 2 more pitches brings you to the top. Choose between the easier slab, or the stunning rail that cuts across the roof! A few alpine draws help with the drag on pitch 1 and if linking pitches 2-4. Try your best to not kick rocks/gravel down the slab. Route includes a complete 5.10a route and an open ~5.14a open project variation. 


Park at 52.0938, -116.4283, 1 km Southwest of the main “Freyja Wall” parking, or 400 m Northeast of the Preacher’s Point entrance. A car sized opening in the trees leads to a well-marked trail. Follow the trail to a T and turn right. Leave the obvious trail by turning left before a fallen dead tree (pictured), which is before the scree field. If you reach the scree/boulder field, you’ve gone too far. Continue up the hill, follow the cliff rightward until you see bolts left of a left facing corner.


Helmet Heart burnt tree on approach
The Helmet Heart Roof

Pitch 1

5.6, 30 m (1st anchor)

Pitch 2

5.9/10a 25 m
A few fingery moves lead to the slab above. Alternatively, go straight up and walk across the fingery holds: spookier!

Pitch 1 alt

5.8, 35 m (2nd anchor)
Climb a slab left of a corner, then traverse right and up to reach an anchor past some small trees. Pitch 1 direct stops here, otherwise skip the anchor, continue right and up.

Pitch 2 alt

5.6, 20 m
Traverse the slab left and up.

Pitch 3

5.7, 20 m
Trend up and left. Easily linked with the next pitch.

Pitch 4 alt

5.7, 20 m
Continue left and up.

Pitch 5

5.9, 20 m
Head up the slab to a tricky corner, shorter climbers might appreciate a stiffy draw here, then head left.

Pitch 6

5.9/5.10a, 25 m
Head up to find 3 bolts of very enjoyable crux slab! Fossils can be found in the band of shale!

Pitch 4 alt

5.7, 25m
Same as P4 but traverse right at the anchor to another anchor.

Pitch 5 alt

~5.13/14, 35m OPEN PROJECT
The eye-catching roof that started it all! Twin rails cut across an otherwise blank face before merging and veering upwards. Bring 2 draws for the slab, the rest is totally fixed!

Pitch 6 alt

5.10b, 36 m
Relatively easy climbing leads to a chossy ramp behind the face. As with the rest of the route, try to not kick rocks down.

Descent from Pitch 6

Belay the last pitch from either the bolted anchor on the face or a tree after topping out. The bolted anchor is below the top out and requires leaning back over the edge to unclip. Knowing how to belay off a tree avoids this. Follow the trail to meet up with the descent for “From Nordegg with Love.” The picnic table at the top of the via ferrata will be a little up and to your right if you want to find it, otherwise go left to follow the trail down. Avoid rapping the entire line due to rockfall and the traversing fall line.

Descent from Pitch 6a

Best to hike up the ridge to the picnic table, then hike the main trail down. If rappelling, P6a requires at least a 72m rope, maybe more, and pulling the rope is guaranteed to bring down rocks. If projecting no higher than P5a, best to escape via the regular route. 

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