5.6, 30 m (1st anchor)
5.9/10a 25 m
A few fingery moves lead to the slab above. Alternatively, go straight up and walk across the fingery holds: spookier!
Pitch 1 alt
5.8, 35 m (2nd anchor)
Climb a slab left of a corner, then traverse right and up to reach an anchor past some small trees. Pitch 1 direct stops here, otherwise skip the anchor, continue right and up.
Pitch 2 alt
5.6, 20 m
Traverse the slab left and up.
5.7, 20 m
Trend up and left. Easily linked with the next pitch.
Pitch 4 alt
5.7, 20 m
Continue left and up.
5.9, 20 m
Head up the slab to a tricky corner, shorter climbers might appreciate a stiffy draw here, then head left.
5.9/5.10a, 25 m
Head up to find 3 bolts of very enjoyable crux slab! Fossils can be found in the band of shale!
Pitch 4 alt
Same as P4 but traverse right at the anchor to another anchor.
Pitch 5 alt
~5.13/14, 35m OPEN PROJECT
The eye-catching roof that started it all! Twin rails cut across an otherwise blank face before merging and veering upwards. Bring 2 draws for the slab, the rest is totally fixed!
Pitch 6 alt
5.10b, 36 m
Relatively easy climbing leads to a chossy ramp behind the face. As with the rest of the route, try to not kick rocks down.
Descent from Pitch 6
Belay the last pitch from either the bolted anchor on the face or a tree after topping out. The bolted anchor is below the top out and requires leaning back over the edge to unclip. Knowing how to belay off a tree avoids this. Follow the trail to meet up with the descent for “From Nordegg with Love.” The picnic table at the top of the via ferrata will be a little up and to your right if you want to find it, otherwise go left to follow the trail down. Avoid rapping the entire line due to rockfall and the traversing fall line.
Descent from Pitch 6a
Best to hike up the ridge to the picnic table, then hike the main trail down. If rappelling, P6a requires at least a 72m rope, maybe more, and pulling the rope is guaranteed to bring down rocks. If projecting no higher than P5a, best to escape via the regular route.