Ultimate Nordegg Thing

Jul 12, 2022 | Abraham Slabs | 0 comments

363 m, 5.9, 60 m rope, 10 alpine draws. Small nuts & cams .3 to 4, optional doubles 0.5-1"

FA: Liz Taylor & Tim Taylor, 2022

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The Ultimate Nordegg Thing Topo

Ultimate Nordegg Thing Topo

Approach:

Park as for Abraham Slabs, trailhead at 52.2445, -116.4391.Take the main trail towards the slabs. Turn left at the first two junctions. When the trail cuts hard to the right and uphill, abandon it working through easy forest travel up and left to circumnavigate the rock outcropping. Trend up and left to reach the base of the route.

There is a bench system which you must scramble up to reach the base of the route. It is – 3 meter scramble, best approached 20 meters right of the right facing corner..

Descent: Five 30m rappels via the Yamnraham descent route

Note: All belays are 2 bolts and none of the anchors are fitted for rappel. Bring tat or leaver biners if you are concerned.

Beta

The Ultimate Nordegg Thing - Bench

Final Approach accross ‘the bench’.

The Ultimate Nordegg Thing Pitch 1

Pitch 1

Approach:

Scramble across the ‘Bench’ to get to the start of the route.

Pitch 1:​ 30 m, 2 bolts , 5.8

Excellent Gear. Start in the groove and avoids the right facing corner. Two bolts will let you know you are on the right track.

The Ultimate Nordegg Thing Pitch 2

Pitch 2

The Ultimate Nordegg Thing Pitch 3

Pitch 3

Pitch 2: 30 m, 5.8

Excellent Gear. Work up the groove stepping left after 15 meters to place gear in the corner on the left. Move back to the groove and continue to the belay.

Pitch 3: 30 m, 5.6

Place generally large gear and travel carefully as blocks may hit your belayer. Climb up a steeper section to a comfortable belay at the trees.

The Ultimate Nordegg Thing Pitch 4

Pitch 4

The Ultimate Nordegg Thing Pitch 5

Pitch 5

Pitch 4: 30 m, 4th class

Short rope or belay your way across the ridge. Stepping down into a notch and back up the other side to a belay below a steep wall.

Pitch 5: 30 m, 1 bolt, 5.9

1 bolt above the belay protects you as you make your way into a crack with excellent gear. Move straight up till the crack widens and ends in a bay. Continue up and slightly left to reach the belay.

Rammed If I do Pitch 1

Pitch 6

Pitch 6: 30 m, 5.5

Trend slightly right and up through easy terrain to the belay.

Pitch 7: 30 m, 5.9

Place small gear in the runnels up and right of the anchor. Continue up and slightly left as the rock quality worsens. Then step back right around a large attached blob of rock to gain the ridge. Move up to a bolt and follow the right ride of the ridge over loose rock for 10m to the belay.

Rammed If I do Pitch 1

Pitch 8

Rammed If I do Pitch 2

Pitch 9

Pitch 8: 45 m, 5.7

Move straight up the left. Follow the ridge generally on the right side until 3 meters before it’s too. Make an exposed move to the right and around the ridge to maintain a reasonable rope line. Don’t forget to place good protection for your second on this traverse. The belay is on the other side of the saddle.

Pitch 9: 50 m, 5.6

Move 5 m left and head straight up on good protection which leases you to a scree ledge. The belay is up and right. Just left of the main chimney.

The Ultimate Nordegg Thing Pitch 10

Pitch 10

The Ultimate Nordegg Thing Pitch 10 Chimney

Pitch 10 chimney

Pitch 10: 58 m, 5.8

Climb up the chimney. As you exit move to the wall on the right and find the belay 10 m past the chimney lip.

Short rope or Scramble up and right to the height of land. Travel down to the saddle. Traverse hard left over a roll and descend about 15 m before gaining the exit gully. Scramble up and gain the Abraham Shoulder Route, follow cairns.

Descent:

Five 30 m rappels via the Yambraham descent route. To descend move south on the ridge for 200 m to a cairn at its end. Scramble down and left looking for another cairn which is on the lower bench. The rappels start about 10 meters to the viewers right of that cairn.

Note: All belays are 2 bolts and none of the anchors are fitted for rappel. Bring tat or leaver biners if you are concerned .

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