Magic Carpet Ride

Oct 7, 2021 | Lookout Slabs | 0 comments

5.8, 70 m rope and 12 quickdraws

FA: Janet Welch and Tim Taylor, 2021

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Magic Carpet Ride, Start of Pitch 1

Janet Welch at the start of Magic Carpet Ride, note the stump on the left side of this photo

Lookout Slabs topo

Lookout Slabs

Offering better climbing and larger than it looks, Lookout Slabs is a suntrap with a short approach and has an easy walk-off back down to the windy point parking lot. There is potential here for many 2-3 pitch climbs. Yes it can be slabby, but the rich texture and interesting formations and runnels make up for it. It is well worth a visit, for nothing else than the opportunity to 2 or three routes in one day.

Approach:

Park as for Windy Point Parking lot. Head West from the parking lot heading along the Lake and eventually you will be walking next to the highway. Follow the highway till you see the Lookout Slabs on your right (North, approx. 52.254333,-116.400385) cross the highway and look out for Red flagging tape heading up a grassy hill towards the slabs. Follow the flagging tape trending left and you will reach the base of the slabs. Wet like Willy is the first route directly in front of you as you are gearing up. Susan’s pollution solution starts left of Wet like Willy and 5 meters up the hill. 10-15 minutes. 

If you are approaching as for Dumbo the approach is fairly similar but the first hill on the right (North) is the one you take to get up to the major slab formation that has the trad route scary Bighorn (5.9) on it. There will be flagging tape marking the way. A burnt out tree with flagging tape marks the start of the route. 20-30 minutes. Magic Carpet Ride begins 100 meters west and about 50 meters lower than Dumbo. There is a large old lightning struck tree with the top missing as a good landmark. Travers left 50 meters from the tree following blue cordelette to find the staging for the route.

Beta

Burnt Tree

Blue cordalette marks the start of the route

First Belay, looking at Pitch 2

First belay station, looking up at Pitch 2

Pitch 1: 40m 5.6:

Bolt 1 is up about 5 meters, clip bolts to the chain anchor.

Pitch 2: 30m 5.7

Climb up on dark textured slab up to a short crux pulling onto a steep ramp and onto a nice belay ledge with 2 belay bolts
(second picture)

Pitch 3 Magic Capret Ride

Janet Welch working up pitch 3

Looking up at Pitch 4

At the third belay, looking at pitch 4

Pitch 4: 35m 5.8

This one comes at you right off the bat. A short steep wall leads to easier climbing and a two bolt anchor to the right of the spruce tree.

Decent:

Scramble/walk off to the right and regain the windy point ridge trail.

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