Always on belay, Andrew

Aug 23, 2021 | Little Russia | 0 comments

5.12a 28m, Sport
Gear: 11-16 quickdraws, 60m rope.

Development: Konstantin Stoletov
FA Konstantin Stoletov

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Always on belay Nate, Always on Belay, Andrew Topos

Little Russia

Little Russia is a new sport climbing area developed in the summer of 2018 by group of Edmonton climbers with steep, burly routes on solid limestone ranging from 5.8 to 5.13. Located in the Peskett canyon with only a 15 minute approach; this area is perfect for someone who is looking to work on  a hard climb in a beautiful canyon setting.

Approach:

Park on the east side of the David Thompson highway in a big pullout (south side of Peskett creek) 7.4km from the Cline River Bridge. Walk back towards Nordegg ~100m crossing the creek along highway and follow a good trail up the bluff, on the South side of the creek. Follow the trail for 10 min and drop down the creek. Cross the creek and walk for another 200m till you hit “Start of the line” overhang.

This climb is past the initial “ship’s prow” feature, and to the back of the canyon. It is the “green” route marked in the image.

Beta

Dave Bassett and Konstantin Stoletov on Always on Belay, Andrew

Dave Basset and Konstantin Stoletov “Always on Belay, Andrew”
Photo: Greg Tos

Note. It is possible to combine P1 and 2 and do the whole climb as one crazy pitch (recommended) with a minimal rope drag, bring 1-2 alpine draws if you plan to do that. One can escape to the right 11b line below the final roof making it mid 11.

Pitch 1: 5.10b, 5 bolts, 10m

Start by a big boulder that is sticking out of the water in early season. Traverse up and left on a crimp/flake with tricky footwork and do a “flexibility test” high-step onto another flake (crux). Finish on easy face to a semi hanging belay.

Pitch 2: 5.12a, 11 bolts, 25m

One of the best 12s at the crag. From P1 belay station step up and right laybacking on the jugs reaching first no hands rest. Do an airy traverse right climbing to the base of first roof. Pull the roof on the crimps (1st crux) to the huge jugs and second no hands rest below another two-step roof. Climb through first step (easy) and pull the second step on the cool wavy sloppers (2nd crux). If you fall look around maybe you missed something;). Climb two slab steps to the chain belay/rap station.

Descent

28m rap brings you to the ground.

Note: DO NOT ATTEMPT the lines that are shown as “work in progress” on the topo. They are not cleaned/bolted yet.

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