Always on belay, Nate

Jul 20, 2021 | Little Russia | 0 comments

5.11b 28m, Sport
Gear: 11-16 quickdraws, 60m rope.

Development: Konstantin Stoletov
FA David Basset, Jan Niederwestberg and Konstantin Stoletov

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Always on belay Nate, Always on Belay, Andrew Topos

Little Russia

Little Russia is a new sport climbing area developed in the summer of 2018 by group of Edmonton climbers with steep, burly routes on solid limestone ranging from 5.8 to 5.13. Located in the Peskett canyon with only a 15 minute approach; this area is perfect for someone who is looking to work on  a hard climb in a beautiful canyon setting.

Approach:

Park on the east side of the David Thompson highway in a big pullout (south side of Peskett creek) 7.4km from the Cline River Bridge. Walk back towards Nordegg ~100m crossing the creek along highway and follow a good trail up the bluff, on the South side of the creek. Follow the trail for 10 min and drop down the creek. Cross the creek and walk for another 200m till you hit “Start of the line” overhang.

This climb is past the initial “ship’s prow” feature, and to the back of the canyon. It is the “blue” route marked in the image. 

Beta

Dave Basset on Pitch 3 of Always on belay, Nate

Dave Basset on Pitch 3

Note: It is possible to combine P1 and P2 with some rope drag or do the whole climb as one pitch with a lot of rope drag, bring alpine draws if you choose to attempt this.

Pitch 1: 5.10b, 5 bolts, 10m

Shared with “Andrew variation”. Start by a big boulder that is sticking out of the water in early season. Traverse up and left on a crimp/flake with tricky footwork and do a “flexibility test” high-step onto another flake (crux). Finish on easy face to a semi hanging belay.

Pitch 2: 5.9, 4 bolts, 10m

Do one or two reachy moves (crux, 5.9) using high hand holds and walk right up the ledge to a good ledge with chain belay station.

Pitch 2: 5.11b, 9 bolts, 20m

One of the best pitches in Little Russia for its grade. Step left, clip the first bolt and climb up to the powerful layback flake. Traverse left clip the bolt from a good two finger sidepull and reach to huge jugs that came out of the climbing gym (crux). Go right onto exposed arête. Climbing and views of the waterfalls get really good here. Pull the arête and get onto a wavy slab with a couple more of tricky moves to the chain belay/rap station.

Descent

27m rap brings you to the ground.

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