Susan’s Pollution Solution

Mar 16, 2021 | Lookout Slabs, Pollution Slab | 0 comments

60 m rope and 12 quickdraws

FA: Andrew Abel 2021

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Lookout Slabs Overview

Lookout Slabs

Offering better climbing and larger than it looks, Lookout Slabs is a suntrap with a short approach and has an easy walk-off back down to the windy point parking lot. There is potential here for many 2-3 pitch climbs. Yes it can be slabby, but the rich texture and interesting formations and runnels make up for it. It is well worth a visit, for nothing else than the opportunity to 2 or three routes in one day.

Pollution Slab Overview

Billy Goat Slabs Overview

Approach:

Park as for Windy Point Parking lot. Head West from the parking lot heading along the Lake and eventually you will be walking next to the highway. Follow the highway till you see the Lookout Slabs on your right (North, approx. 52.254333,-116.400385) cross the highway and look out for Red flagging tape heading up a grassy hill towards the slabs. Follow the flagging tape trending left and you will reach the base of the slabs. Wet like Willy is the first route directly in front of you as you are gearing up. Susan’s pollution solution starts left of Wet like Willy and 5 meters up the hill. 10-15 minutes.

If you are approaching for  Dumbo the approach is fairly similar but the first hill on the right (North) is the one you take to get up to the major slab formation that has the trad route scary Bighorn (5.9) on it. There will be flagging tape marking the way. A burnt out tree with flagging tape marks the start of the route. 20-30 minutes.

Beta

Susans Pollutions Solution Pitch 1
Susans Pollution Solution Belay 1

Pitch 1,  32 meters 5.6

Start up the smooth slab as it becomes more and more textured to a small bay with a chain anchor belay. (Pictured)

Pitch 2, 25 meters 5.7

Head up straight up over a steeper section of slab to a nice bolted belay

Pitch 3, 15 meters 5.5

Head up over ever easier ground to a slightly awkward belay stance. From here you can walk off to the right or rappel the route.

Descent

The last rappel is just short of the original spot where you start but it is fairly easy to rappel and then traverse left to the hill and then walk back down. Alternatively, you can rappel down to the 2nd station of Susan’s Pollution solution and then rappel to the 1st station of Wet like Willy and then get to the ground from there. Both options are easy and work well for getting off the climb. Alternatively walk off down the scree slope climbers right of the climbs

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