AA
5.8, 185m, Sport
Bonus Pitch 35m 5.10+
6 alpine draws, 8 quickdraws, 70m Rope
Ground Up Bolting and First Ascent – Andrew Abel and Tim Taylor
Approach:
Park as for ‘Little Russia’, and the ice climbs End of the Line and Lovely Parting Gifts. Hike up the ridge on the North side of the Peskett Canyon Drainage. Rather than dropping off the ridge into the drainage as for Little Russia, continue up the ridge. Look for yellow flagging tape which will mark the way for 20 minutes.
This spot is where the creek from the farthest left gully on Mt. Elliot crosses the highway. Hike along a rail on top of the hill on the right side of the creek. Follow this for about 20 minutes to the base of the cliffs, skirt some smaller cliffs on the right.
Overhead Hazard:
The routes in this zone are ‘fresh off the press’ Rocky Mountain limestone climbing. As such, expect some loose rock. A great deal of effort has been put into cleaning and developing this zone but it’s still new (developed in 2020).
Other Parties:
Drop your packs at the large dugout which is 30 meters south of the cliffs base, and gear up there. Climbers on P1 of Voltzwagen will potentially drop rock on the start of AA.
Beta
P1: 15m, 5.3, 2 bolts
Scramble up to the top of the pinnacle clipping two bolts and finding a chain station on a big flat ledge. This is a good place to put climbing shoes on.
P2: 35m, 5.8, 9 bolts
Stay under the bolts and trend left to gain access to a groove that trends right into a small ledge, bring 2-3 runners to prevent rope drag.
P3: 35m, 5.8, 7 bolts
Up and trend left going through a small choss band. Eases off into the groove, anchor is just past the small tree.
P4: 35m, Sport, 5.7
Trend right following bolts to a station.
P5: 35m, Sport, 5.6
Follow bolts to a station on a flat ledge
in a semi forested area.
P6: 35m, Sport, 5.6
Clip a few bolts on the way to easier ground. Walk up and right to a station.
P7: (original finish) 35m, Sport, 5.10+
The best pitch on the wall. It’s harder than it looks! Head left after the second bolt.
P7: (alternate finish) 35m, sport, 5.7
Head right after the second bolt.
Descent
Rappel the route.